It’s been pretty gloomy since I arrived, but today summer finally showed up in full force. My cousin Olga and I decided to enjoy the sunshine downtown, wandering the streets and checking out a couple of cafés I’ve had on my must-try list.
As always, I’d done my homework. I’m not about to waste a coffee moment on some overpriced tourist trap with mediocre service. I want the latte. And preferably a seat with a view.
I’d heard my former favorite café had shut down but nope, just a name change. It’s called Stadtmauer now. The layout is still perfect, and you can sit both inside and outside at the same time. Love that! We also stumbled upon another cozy spot called Café Donnerlittjen.
Today was a weekday squeezed between a public holiday and the weekend, so a lot of locals had the day off. On top of that, there was some kind of street market going on, complete with carousels, balloons, and candy stands.
Downtown Hannover centers around Ernst-August-Platz, just outside the main train station, and is one of the busiest pedestrian zones in Germany. It’s a bit too crowded for my taste, but there’s so much to see that it’s still worth it.
The statue of King Ernst August I is basically the city’s unofficial meetup spot. If someone says “we’ll meet at the horse” (“Wir treffen uns am Pferd”), they mean right in front of this statue. A short walk away, the vibe shifts to wide pedestrian streets lined with shops and restaurants. The folding lounge chairs outside one of the ivy-covered cafés made this place feel almost like a Parisian plaza.
A bit further away, the scenery turns fairytale-like. The old town is full of timber-framed houses straight out of a storybook. There’s also some really beautiful old old churches tucked under lush green trees, with towering spires peeking out above the rooftops.
While much of the city was destroyed during World War II and rebuilt in a rather plain, utilitarian style, a few original buildings did survive, and they really stand out. There’s something effortlessly elegant about the pre-war architecture that gives you a glimpse of how stylish the city must have once looked.
A couple of fun facts:
✴️ Hannover is one of the greenest cities in Germany
Despite its industrial image, Hannover is incredibly green. The Eilenriede city forest is twice the size of New York’s Central Park and sits right in the heart of town. Locals use it for walking, biking and picnicking.
✴️ Hannover’s German is “standard” German
If you’re learning German, Hannover is considered one of the best places to practice. The accent here is famously neutral. Many TV news anchors and language teachers are trained to speak in this “Hannover” style.